Think you’ve got the moves like Jagger? Try this on for size: a wine made from New Zealand’s dark star of a grape variety. It is a masterclass in what can be achieved by using fruit from Marlborough’s Awatere and Wairau valleys and made into wine that makes a point of showing off the citrus, ripe pear, and floral characteristics that make this wine so good when it is well made. It is also a credit to Dave Clouston who has added this to his track record of making fabulous, varietally pure, typical and beautifully crafted wines from top-notch local fruit. A joy.